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Days 10 , 11 & 12 (August 2, 4, & 5, 2013). We got to the West Entrance of Yellowstone on a Friday at around 1 pm. We were hoping to camp inside the park but knew that there was a big chance that all campgrounds would be full—most sites get taken in the morning, especially on a weekend during the high season.  Our plan was to check the Madison Campground first and then move north to check Norris and Indian Creek. The Park Ranger at the entrance booth told us that all the campgrounds were full and that we should consider staying outside the park.  He was right. Madison, Norris, Indian Creek and also Mammoth by the North Entrance were full. At that point we decided to look for a motel in Gardiner, MT, a pretty little town right next to the park. We checked in at the Absaroka Motel for the night. The little bit of the park that we saw that day was great so we were looking forward to exploring some more in the following days. That evening we celebrated completing the second leg of our trip with very tasty elk hamburgers and an excellent Argentinean Malbec, Alberti 154.  The following morning we had to find a place to stayed because the motel did not have room for us. Rhiana P.—a fellow blogger we had met at a fly fishing store in Gardiner—had recommended Eagle Creek, a small campground a few miles from town.  At around 9 in the morning we drove on Jardine Street up the mountain to look for Eagle Creek.  The view of Yellowstone from the camp was fantastic. We set up camp, had a coffee, and then rode back into the park to visit the northern section. We rode all the way to the Northeast Entrance and continued into the town of Cooke City, MT. We saw a lot of fauna that day. A few minutes into the park we saw a puma running at the edge of a pond in the direction of some ducks. The puma sat at the edge of the water looking at the out of reach ducks which did not react at all, as if they had not registered the presence of the hungry predator. Later we saw several herds of bison and groups of pronghorn. At Cooke City we had lunch (buffalo hamburgers) while we watched quite a few groups of Harley Davidson bikers riding into town. On the way back to camp I was able to spot the place on the Lamar River where Maggie and I had a semi-close encounter with a black bear many years ago. Back at the Eagle Creek camp we cleaned the windshields of the bikes and I worked on the blog while enjoying a beautiful sunset. For dinner we had ramen noodles supplemented with sauteed green onions and mushrooms. During our regular after-dinner walk through the campground we met David, a chemist from Denver who was camping down the hill from us. The following morning we left Eagle Creek hoping, once again, to find a place to camp inside the park. As we were loading our bikes David came to say goodbye and gave us a few tips about camping at the Great Tetons National Park, located immediately south of Yellowstone.  We visited several amazing places that day: the Norris Geyser Area with its many spewing fumaroles, the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River, the two big falls on the Yellowstone, the Old Faithful—the star geyser of Yellowstone—, and the beautiful pools at Black Sand Basin. We spent the day driving around the park from one incredible place to another. At around 4 pm we decided to drive south to leave the park. All the campgrounds we had checked were full so we thought we should try our luck at the  Grand Tetons. We got gas at the Grant Village and begun driving south to check the last campground, Lewis Lake, in our way out of Yellowstone. Given our previous experience we harbored no hope of finding an open spot there that late in the day. But we were wrong; the campground had several sites available so we spent our final night in Yellowstone inside the park. For dinner we had a very yummy “Chicken and Rice” (Mountain House), popcorn, and an Argentinean herbal tea (boldo).  After dinner we went to the lake where we enjoyed a nice pink sunset in the company of three German tourists that we had seen before camping at Eagle Creek.